I have recently returned from a visit to Greece. When I got back a couple of months ago I was hit by headlines like this; ‘David Cameron prepared to halt immigration of Greeks into UK’
I will start by confessing that I am proud to be a fully paid up member of the “Bleeding Heart liberal (small L) Club”.
Greece is a country I fell in love with when Gina and I took a 2-3 year sailing sabbatical and ended up there. We loved it so much that we left our wee boat there to give us an excuse to keep returning.
The vast majority of our experiences of Greece have been very positive. The only notable exception was seeing the plight of illegal immigrants in the Greek Aegean Islands. In places the Greek islands are only a few hundred yards from the Turkish coast and these spots have become favoured by people traffickers. The following are 3 extracts from the blog I kept at the time:-
• “While on the Island of Lesvos Gina and I hired a motorbike in Mithimna to do a bit of sight-seeing. We set out on a so called “main road” and soon found ourselves in trouble. After about 3 miles the road became a dirt track which then became a minor off road course. Things got really bad when we saw a military speed limit notice giving the maximum speeds for tanks and jeeps (true!). Our wee 125cc bike was designed for nipping stylishly about town, not moto-cross!
Nonetheless the views across the straits to Turkey were glorious in the morning sun. The sea was a deep blue-black with only the shallows being a rich azure and the sun sending golden streaks of light across the surface. Despite the dangers of off-roading on a moped, we were rather enjoying the ride – well Gina was, I was wondering if Mitilini Lidls had a cheap line in underpants! Then we noticed what looked like a walking group up ahead (Lesvos is full of athletic, middle aged, Northern European walking groups) however to our shock we saw that they were about 30 African men wearing cheap, grubby, multi coloured “designer” tracksuits looking incredibly frazzled and worn-out.
Clearly they were illegal immigrants. A boat had landed them during the night. They were carrying small rucksacks which must have contained all their worldly possessions. It is one of the saddest sights that we had ever seen. These men were probably the cream of their local communities. Back home, they were the ones with ambition and get-up and go. They had begged, stolen, borrowed and worked their nuts off just to afford to pay the ruthless traffickers for the journey. They hoped they could improve the lives of themselves and their families. Wives, girlfriends, children and families had all been left at home. Presumably there had been celebrations and they left on a wave of optimism. Those tearful parties would seem a long way behind them now as they trudged their weary, sleep-starved way along a dusty, rutted back-road in one of Europe’s poorest countries. A country which has serious employment problems of its own and can ill-afford to deal with this influx dumped, by the profiteering people traffickers, on their doorstep.
Although they did not know it yet they were destined to be either deported back or, after a spell in one of the bleak island internment centres, to find themselves in the minor criminal underworld touting second rate, hopelessly inappropriate, tourist trinkets for middle class Europeans in the holiday centres of the Mediterranean.
When we arrived at Skala Sikamineas, after about 9 miles of off -roading, we found ourselves in a beautiful fishing hamlet with a tiny harbour, vine trellissed Tavernas and a pretty church. It also had a large coastguard cutter moored up and a number of armed coastguards wandering around. Another coastguard cutter was just pulling into the harbour. Clearly they had a tip off about the party of Africans.
We had been contemplating stopping for a coffee to get the dust out of our throats but could not bear to stay and see those poor souls arrested. The only groups who normally visit this lovely fishing village are tourists on fun boat trips out of Petra and Mythimna. They turn up here, swim, party, sunbathe and then depart having experienced this attractively rustic and friendly wee port. Sadly this group of Africans would have a very different experience. We left hastily. The sight of these refugees cast a blight on our stay on Lesvos.”
• “On arrival at Ay Yeoryiou on Agathonisi we found the port to be a pretty, sleepy, little place with a Taverna, and a few houses – just what we were looking for. The quay was filled with 3 coastguard cutters, one Brit yacht and what looked like a small ferry with a queue of people sat around waiting for it to go. However, the main anchorage was empty so we anchored and started getting lunch organised. As we took in our surroundings we realised that all was not as idyllic as we had supposed. The ferry was actually an impounded Turkish fishing boat. The queue of passengers was a group of about 50 illegal immigrants and they were being dealt with by the crews of the 3 coastguard boats.
The group of immigrants looked Asian. This was the 5th time we had seen the coastguard dealing with smuggled people. Previously it was just groups of young men. However, on this occasion it was mainly families, some with babies and young kids. The coastguards seemed to be dealing with them sympathetically but it was still an unedifying sight. Kids and parents huddled together nervously in family groups. Parents trying to keep the whole situation as calm and normal as possible while the coastguards tried to get them organised. All in all the attraction of staying in Ay Yeoryiou was starting to disappear as we watched this portrait of human misery.”
• “In its past Salonika (Thessalonika), Greece’s second city, has seen huge cultural changes. In Ottoman times and up until the second world war it was renowned for its tolerance of the diverse ethnic communities in which Greeks were often in the minority.
It is a city in which, historically, the various races rubbed along OK, despite the appalling, and racist, Ottoman bureaucracy. Generally the Jews were the largest group in the city until it was taken by the Nazis in 1941 and they were mostly transported away and systematically murdered at Auschwitz.
Nowadays it is a very modern city with a strong café culture and some of the best restaurants in Greece. In the evening we were sat in a café bar having dinner when we noticed that an African guy was wandering around selling pirate CDs. We fell into conversation with this delightful character with a huge smile and about a hectare of uncontrolled wiry hair springing from his head. He told us that he had been in Greece for 3 years since illegally arriving from Nigeria. We asked him how things were going for him now and he said “When I learned to survive the hate, things started going OK”. Needless to say we bought a few CDs. “
So, when I got home a couple of months ago and saw that Theresa May and David Cameron were planning to turn away Greeks, who, under the various EU treaties, had the right for free movement throughout the EU, I dwelt on these experiences . It was clear that our government was generating that same hate and fear that had been described to us in Thessalonika, in order to get public opinion on their side.
On the Greek Islands we saw a very different attitude to these immigrants. In many supermarkets there were trolleys where shoppers could, and did, deposit food and other essentials for those in the internment camps. We also witnessed many acts of kindness by the Greek Coastguards who are responsible for rounding up illegal immigrants.
One of the pleasures of our travels was that we got to meet a lot of Brits who reside in the countries around the Mediterranean. In every country we visited (Ireland, Spain, Portugal, Italy and Greece) we met some delightful and often adventurous characters who had decided to make these countries their home. In some cases (mostly the Spanish Costas and some Greek Islands) they were part of a larger Brit community and tended to live in Brit ghettoes. In others they had fully integrated into the indigenous population.
Without exception they admitted few regrets about leaving the UK behind. Mostly they were retired and were able to benefit from the facilities that each country offered them. In many instances they made no more than minimal contributions to taxation in their chosen abode but were all happy to take advantage of their health services, infrastructure etc.
What will happen to these people as the economies of the Med countries become insolvent? Will these financially challenged governments continue to support them after Cameron has slammed the door in the faces of their native citizens? I think not.
This conjures up a bleak thought that we might soon see some of the brightest and the best from the Southern EU marching careworn and dusty from the beaches of the Isle of Wight, Islay and Mull in search of a better future for themselves and their families. Will there be Borders Agency boats regularly patrolling our shores to round up and intern people who, until Cameron decided to trample on our treaty obligations, had a perfect right to be here? Is it possible that we could see Greek and Portuguese young men selling tartan trinkets and fake designer watches on the streets of Inveraray and Oban? Will ageing Brits be hounded out of those countries that Cameron has offended by his overtly selective and dubiously legal policies?
The Prime Minister is not against all immigrants and has thoughtfully said that there will be a let out clause for some. If they are preceded here by a nice meaty bank balance and claim that they are fleeing the stringent tax regimes of their native lands, apparently Messrs Cameron and Osborne will put out the red carpet – so that’s alright then?